27 of us headed to the Cote des Bar in early June for a week of cycling in the gentle and scenic countryside of this lesser known champagne region. Having arrived by various means, most of us checked into the Hotel Lac d’Orient in Mesnil-saint-Pere as our base for the week while a few parked up at the lakeside camp site.
The hotel was perfect for our group, comfortable rooms, convenient, quiet location, and tasty food with the benefit of as much wine as you wanted included with dinner! An additional bonus was the wildlife with long-eared owls by the lake and house martins nesting outside our rooms. The weather was cool, sunny and mostly dry. Most of the rides made use of part of the extensive network of well maintained and quiet cycle paths that circle the lake.
Sunday
A sunny, scenic ride through villages and vineyards to the small town of Essoyes on the Ource river (with cow!) where Renoir lived and painted. Late lunch followed with our first trip of several to the creperie just up from the hotel where we were made very welcome.
Monday
We headed into Troyes along the cycle path, a beautiful historic city with loads of ancient timbered buildings, cathedral and basilica. After a quick tour and coffee we then headed out west of the city up through more vineyards to a viewing point in Montgueux before returning through pretty villages.
Tuesday
Today’s ride around part of the lake and through more very pretty villages was to Brienne le Chateau where Napoleon went to college. The return journey took in some wide open scenery and passed the windmill at Dosches before dropping back down to the lake.
Wednesday
With the risk of rain, we had our ‘rest day’ and all did our own thing with some opting to cycle around the lake, others walking some of the extensive network of tracks in the Foret d’Orient, a couple braving a kayak on the lake and a few went back into Troyes for more time to explore. The forecast was correct with a spectacular thunderstorm and soaking for some in the afternoon.
Thursday
Today was our visit to the Devaux champagne house with a later start and a gentle ride to Bar-sur-Seine for lunch and then on to the champagne house in a scenic setting just up the road on the Seine. The tour was interesting and informative and we tried 3 of their champagnes in the large tasting room. Fortunately we had vehicle support for shoes and purchases!
Friday
For our last day we split into 2 groups with one group heading south and the other east to Bar-sur-Aube for one last look at the scenic vineyards and stop for yummy pastries. In the evening we were joined at the hotel by the campers for a group meal and a thank you to the staff who had looked after us so well.
The location was great with enough to do even for non-riding partners, the scenery, traffic and pothole free roads were a joy and the ride options worked well for our mixed group…..a relaxing and enjoyable week.
